Weeds in the Garden and How to Identify Them

(Plus Natural Ways to Kill Weeds Without Harsh Chemicals)

This post is all about how to get rid of weeds in garden.

Weeds in the garden—those persistent little plants—seem to show up just when your veggies are starting to thrive. I know I’ve spent more than a few early mornings tugging at stubborn roots, only to find them back a week later like they never left… Ok, not even a week with some of them! But over time, I’ve learned that the key to controlling weeds isn’t just about how to get rid of them. It’s about learning to recognize them, understanding why they’re there, and then deciding how to deal with them in a way that fits your garden style. This may seem a bit out there, but understanding what their actual purpose is (yes, they have a purpose!) can help combat them.

So if you’re wondering how to kill weeds naturally, how to get weeds out of the lawn, or even how to kill weeds in the garden without harming your harvest—this blog post for you.

This post is all about how to get rid of weeds in garden.

Dandelion

If there’s one weed I don’t really like to battle, it’s the dandelion.

Why?

Dandelions are actually really important for the bees! They’re a crucial early food source for them. Dandelions are one of the first flowers to bloom in the spring time when finding food can be quite difficult for bees.

They’re easy to recognize with their bright yellow blooms and deep taproots that seem to go on forever. Dandelions often show up in compacted soil, which is their way of telling us the earth could use some loosening up. Ever notice that they often appear on the edge of a driveway or a sidewalk? That’s because the soil is compacted in that area. If you really need to get rid of them (for whatever reason) try to pull them after a good rain when the soil is soft—using a narrow trowel or weeding fork to get that whole root out. When they’ve taken over a path or driveway, use vinegar to kill weeds like these—just spray the base of the plant on a sunny, dry day. It’s an easy, natural way to keep them from coming back without using harsh sprays.

Crabgrass

Crabgrass is one of those sneaky weeds that creeps in during summer and makes itself comfortable fast. It loves bare soil and heat, and once it settles in, it spreads outward like a little green spider. I’ve found that thick, healthy lawn growth is your best defense. I mow high—around three inches—and keep bare patches covered. Along the edges of my garden beds (not in the raised beds) or in cracks along the sidewalk, I’ve used baking soda to kill weeds like crabgrass. Just a sprinkle directly on the plant can dry it out. It’s simple, but be careful not to get it on your lawn grass—it doesn’t know the difference! This is also a temporary solution to getting rid of this weed.

And you definitely have to be careful using baking soda. Excessive use of it can cause more harm to your garden, lawn, etc than do good.

Growing Conditions

To combat crabgrass it’s important to understand why it pops up. Crabgrass appears because of a combination of reasons:

• poor soil conditions – it loves sandy soil, compacted soil, or soil that’s low in nutrients
• excessive water – promotes crabgrass germination and seeding
• low mowing (grass is cut short) – this weakens the grass when the grass is cut too low.
• bare spots
• thin areas

Bindweed

Bindweed is probably one of the most frustrating weeds I deal with. It wraps itself around my flowers and can choke out young plants if I’m not paying attention. It has white or pale pink flowers that look harmless, but don’t be fooled—it has a deep root system and spreads like wildfire. I’ve learned that persistence is key. I cut it back often to starve the roots, and I smother garden beds with cardboard and mulch. Obviously cardboard can only be put down if nothing’s planted in the beds. If it shows up in between pavers or away from edible plants, I’ll carefully apply vinegar to kill weeds like bindweed. I wouldn’t recommend putting vinegar in garden beds though. Just be patient—this one takes time.

Vinegar shouldn’t be used in vegetable gardens because it alters the pH in the soil. However, this is just my opinion. This is yet another item that can do more harm than good. However, when it comes to putting it on cracks in the sidewalk, to get rid of weeds in a rock area of your yard – anywhere that it’s going to burn your other plants or lawn.

Growing Conditions

Bindweed is very adaptable so it can grow in all sorts of conditions. It usually like full sun, well draining soil, and fertile soil. But it can tolerate poor soil quality, drought conditions, some shady areas, areas with moisture, disturbed soil like farmland, and more. It has a very extensive and deep root system.

Lamb’s Quarters

Lamb’s quarters surprised me the first time I saw it. The leaves sort of look like spinach, and it actually used to be grown as food. But left unchecked, it’ll grow up to five feet tall and produce a ridiculous amount of seeds. In my garden, I pull lamb’s quarters early—before it flowers. The leaves are powdery underneath, which makes them easy to spot.

It tends to show up in nutrient-rich, well-balanced soil—especially beds that have recently been worked or amended. In fact, its presence is often a quiet compliment to your soil. Lamb’s quarters loves loose, fertile earth with plenty of nitrogen and organic matter, and it thrives in full sun with just enough moisture. When I see it growing, I know the soil is doing something right. Of course, it grows quickly—sometimes faster than the crops I’ve planted—and can easily take over if left unchecked. But in moderation, it’s not all bad. The young leaves are edible (a bit like spinach), and its roots don’t usually compete aggressively with deeper-rooted plants. I still pull most of it before it goes to seed, but I always pause first—it’s a sign that my soil is healthy and ready to support growth.

Chickweed

Chickweed is one of those cool-season weeds that can sneak in during early spring or late fall. It grows in a soft mat with tiny white flowers, and once it’s established, it spreads quickly. I usually hoe or hand-pull it when it’s young—it comes up easily in damp soil. If I miss a patch, I’ll use a vinegar spray with a splash of dish soap to kill weeds like chickweed naturally. It works best on sunny days, and I try to apply it early before it sets seed. A thick layer of mulch also helps keep it from coming back.

Growing Conditions

Chickweed thrives in cool, moist conditions, which means it tends to pop up in early spring or fall—especially in shaded areas where the soil stays damp. Chickweed prefers loamy, fertile soil, and when I see it growing, I take it as a sign that my garden beds are high in organic matter and well cared for. It doesn’t do well in dry, compacted soil, so its presence is often a subtle nod that things are balanced beneath the surface. I’ve also noticed it likes areas that aren’t being actively disturbed, which makes sense—its tiny roots and low-growing habit don’t compete much with crops, and it can act like a natural groundcover, holding moisture in the soil. While I do pull it once it starts to spread too far, I’ll sometimes leave a patch or two as a living mulch, especially around slower-growing plants that appreciate the extra shade and humidity.

Purslane

Purslane is a low-growing succulent with thick stems and small yellow flowers. It’s one of the most heat-tolerant weeds, and it spreads by both seeds and stem fragments—which means even a little piece left behind can regrow. I always make sure to bag it up completely when pulling. I’ve also found baking soda to be helpful when I’m trying to kill weeds in the garden path or between raised beds. A little dusting can stop purslane from coming back without relying on synthetic weed killers.

Growing Conditions

Purslane is one of those weeds I used to dismiss as a nuisance—until I realized just how resilient and useful it can be. It shows up most often during the hottest part of summer, thriving in dry, compacted, and poor soils where other plants struggle to survive. You’ll usually find it creeping low along the ground, soaking up the sun with its thick, succulent leaves. Purslane is incredibly drought-tolerant, and its ability to spread quickly helps it act as a living mulch, reducing evaporation and protecting the soil surface from erosion. Its presence is often a sign that your garden soil might be low in organic matter or not holding moisture well, especially in high-traffic or neglected areas. While I don’t let it run wild, I’ll often leave a few patches in out-of-the-way corners—especially since it’s edible, nutrient-dense, and easy to pull when I need the space back.

Nutsedge

Nutsedge looks a bit like grass but has triangular stems and pointy seed heads. The tricky thing about nutsedge is that it grows from little underground nutlets, which can be hard to get rid of. In my beds, I dig deeply to remove as much of the root system as possible. Then I cover the soil with cardboard and a heavy mulch layer to block sunlight. If it returns, I repeat the process. It’s slow work, but it’s worth it. I avoid chemical weed killers in my veggie beds, so learning how to kill weeds naturally—especially persistent ones like nutsedge—has been a game changer.

Growing Conditions

Nutsedge is one of those weeds that seems to pop up overnight—and once it’s there, it’s not easy to get rid of. It typically shows up in moist, poorly drained soils, especially in areas that stay consistently wet or receive frequent irrigation. You’ll often find it in sunny patches of lawn or garden where the water doesn’t drain well. Nutsedge spreads aggressively through tiny underground tubers (called nutlets), which makes hand-pulling tricky unless you get the entire root system. Its presence is often a signal that your soil has drainage issues or is staying too wet between waterings. While it doesn’t offer many benefits in the garden, spotting nutsedge can be a helpful reminder to evaluate your watering habits, aerate compacted areas, or improve drainage to discourage its return.

Summary of Weeds

I thought it would be convenient to summarize the above in a chart to maybe make it a little easier to view:

Weed Name	Growing Conditions	What It Tells You	Benefits
Dandelion	Full sun; compacted or disturbed soil; moderate moisture.	Soil is compacted or low in calcium; needs loosening or aeration.	Deep roots break up soil; brings nutrients to surface; pollinator-friendly.
Crabgrass	Full sun; poor, dry, compacted soil; thrives in warm weather.	Soil is low in fertility and compacted; indicates disturbed ground.	No real benefit; can protect bare soil temporarily but is highly invasive.
Bindweed	Full sun; disturbed soil; spreads aggressively through deep roots.	Soil may be over-tilled or disturbed; signals long-term root issues.	No benefits in garden settings; aggressive spreader; hard to control.
Lamb’s Quarters	Rich, fertile, well-drained soil; full sun; moist but not soggy.	Soil is nutrient-rich and recently disturbed; well-aerated conditions.	Edible leaves; sign of healthy soil; fast-growing green manure.
Chickweed	Cool, moist, shaded areas; loamy, fertile soil; high organic matter.	Soil is fertile, high in organic matter, and consistently moist.	Acts as living mulch; edible; holds moisture; improves soil cover.
Purslane	Hot, dry areas; poor soil; drought-tolerant once established.	Soil is dry and low in organic matter; compaction may be present.	Edible; reduces erosion; drought-resistant; easy to remove if needed.
Nutsedge	Moist, poorly drained soil; spreads by tubers; thrives in sun.	Soil is waterlogged or has poor drainage; often in wet lawn areas.	Very invasive; minimal benefit; fast spreader in wet, sunny areas.

Natural Ways to Kill Weeds (Without Chemicals)

If you’re like me and try to avoid synthetic herbicides, there are still plenty of ways to kill weeds in the garden:

• Vinegar to kill weeds: Choose 20% horticultural vinegar for the best results. Spray in full sun for a more effective burn.
• Baking soda and weeds: Works great on cracks and paths. Sprinkle it directly on the leaves.
• Boiling water: For areas where you don’t want anything growing, like gravel or sidewalk cracks. Do not use this at all on your lawn or in your garden.
• Mulch and cardboard: My favorite way to block light and smother weeds in garden beds.
• Consistent pulling: Especially for weeds with shallow roots. It’s therapeutic, too—just you, the soil, and some sunshine.
• Mulch: the soil just doesn’t like bare spots. Always cover the soil to keep weeds at bay, otherwise, they’ll fill in the gaps.
• Garden fabric: put down garden fabric to stifle weeds. This is a pretty time consuming task, but the best way to do it is to plant your plants first, and then put the fabric down.
• Weeder: This is one of my absolute favorite tools! It’s a 4 clawtool that really gets down into the soil, clamps onto the root, and pulls the weed out by the root. It works so well and saves my knees and back from having to constantly bend down and pull weeds.

A Final Note on Weeds in the Garden

Weeds in the garden can feel overwhelming, especially when you’re just trying to grow a few tomatoes or keep your herbs alive. Your best line of defense to combat weeds is to put down garden fabric and/or mulch. Mulch has a couple of benefits: 1) it helps to retain moisture in the soil which is critical during really hot, dry spells or drought conditions; 2) it helps to keep weeds at bay; and 3) it eventually breaks down into the soil.

But once you get to know them—and start to understand what they’re telling you about your soil—you can create a plan that works for you. Whether you’re pulling by hand, using baking soda to kill weeds along the edges, or spraying vinegar to control problem spots, there’s a natural solution that fits every gardener.

Remember, a little time spent now can save a whole lot of effort later. Happy weeding—and even happier planting.

This post was all about how to get rid of weeds in garden.

Other Posts You May Like

Easy Summer Garden Maintenance Checklist for Zone 6

10 Companion Plants that Love Tomatoes

What to Plant with Roses: A Guide to Companion Planting